Wednesday - We toured the 800 y/o Baltit fort. Though dwarfed by the mountains in the background, it stands out high above the town, looking strong and imposing, especially at night when it's lighted. After falling into disrepair over the years it's been recently restored. Our tour was led by the curator, a charming man with a great-looking mustache and an obvious love of his work. A thoroughly interesting tour, we shared it with a small (14) group of older Aussies. A like-sized group of Japanese followed us. Those are the first groups we've seen here.ISMAILI MUSLIMS This is Ramadan, the time when Muslims traditionally don't eat or drink during daylight., but the Muslims in this area are Ismaili Muslims. They are a branch of the Shias, but make up only about 3 to 5% of all Muslims. They call themselves the "peaceful people." Their Imam (spiritual leader) is the current Aga Khan, and they follow his teachings, which emphasize education, peaceful development and philanthropy. The women don't have to cover their faces, and they are more involved in the community. I’ve talked with teachers, health workers, and a doctor. However, except for school girls, you don't see many women on the streets. Ismailis pray 3 (not 5) times a day, believe that the prescribed visit to Mecca doesn't have to be physical, but can be spiritual, and are welcoming and accepting of others. They apparently view Ramadan fasting as optional, so getting food here is not a problem.
Tourism is an important industry in Karimabad, which has ample accommodations,
including several upscale hotels. Lots of restaurants and gift shops, but not many tourists. Except for the two groups we saw at the fort, the only other tourists were alone or in small groups. In our 10 days here and Passu we saw maybe 20 or 25 tourists total. Most were Asian (Japanese, Chinese, Taiwanese, Korean), and also, a French couple, a Kiwi couple in their 70's, 2 Germans (separately, 1 a paraglider), a Swiss couple, plus Peter, Freddy, and a Japanese woman and Kiwi man, both around 50, who had to explain to people that yes, they are a couple and have been for 20 years.WATER CHANNELS On the mountainside across the river is a straight, horizontal line. The land above it is rocky and brown. The terrain below is mostly green. It's a channel that brings water from the mountain or a glacier. These channels provide the water for irrigation and domestic use that has allowed the settlement and population growth in what is a harsh, arid environment. Some channels have been carved into the mountain, and some built up with stone. Some are hundreds of years old. These channels are a common
feature of the developed areas around here. You see them when driving on the roads and when flying over. The conditions are harsh, the slopes steep, and the early tools primitive. It’s mind-boggling to think of the planning, surveying and engineering skills needed to envision and construct them.Brad (r) and Freddy (l), with Karimabad and the Hunza Valley. The river isn't visible from this angle, but across the valley the tree line clearly locates the water channel.
A SURPRISE RESPONSE: It was a small produce stall, maybe 8 feet wide. The counter at the front meant only the owner could reach the items, which were on shelves behind him. There were lots of apples, and a variety of other fruits and veggies, including some grapes, which I pointed to, asking for 10 rupees worth. The vendor looked at the grapes, which were a little old, but seemed ok to me. But he said no, they weren't good and he wouldn't sell them to me. They were there to sell. It felt like he was protecting me, that he didn't want to take advantage of an ignorant tourist, but the grapes were apparently ok to sell to a local. People are friendly here, but his response sure surprised me.
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