#5 K'BAD TO GILGIT 9/24

On Sunday we hiked along a water channel high above Karimabad. We've walked along channels before, but this one is higher, and the hillside steeper. Fascinating to see the construction up close, to wonder how it was done, and, seeing where a section of rock had recently fallen away, wonder how it would be repaired. The photos don't come close to capturing the distance from where we were standing to the rock 200+ feet below. On the path back we were stopped by a local guy who pressured / pleaded with us to visit his family's fields. Short on time we declined tea, but accepted some apples and pears as we left.

Monday - It's gotten colder, and the weather's been marginal for flying, so Brad and Freddy decided it was time to head for Booni, the village where Brad found a great launch. It's far enough away that the weather will be different. A nice surprise this morning. After usual breakfast at Haider’s, we went next door to check email and ran into two Americans, Ripal and Kelly, two women from NYC who were on my flight into Gilgit. From Gilgit they had gone to the area where we're going. They hadn't met Brad before, but were happy to, having seen his name as the most recent American signed in at several hotels and passport check points. Not many Americans are traveling in Pakistan (or at least in this area) now. It turns out that Ripal and Kelly were the only other Americans I saw in my 5 1/2 weeks in Pakistan.

We left Karimabad hoping to reach Gilgit in time to catch the day's last bus to Mastuj. We left late, however, and were slowed by traffic and by heavy equipment clearing the road of a recent rockslide. As in India, the trucks here are very intricately and colorfully painted, so it gives you something to look at when you're behind one. And we were, and we missed the last bus from Gilgit. [At this point please insert some blather about the uselessness of impatience, when traveling and otherwise, and the joy of learning to accept the delays and detours on "the journey" (literal and metaphorical). Amen]. Had we caught the bus we would have missed a fine evening in Gilgit, not to mention the daylight views on the road to Mastuj.

We stayed at the Madina Guest House, the place for international travelers. At 6:30 the owner, Jakov (?), invited all the guests to join in the evening meal to end the day's Ramadan fast. What a great experience. Even better than the free food (which was good), was the spirit of the occasion. One large table with people from Japan, Australia, France, Colombia, England, the US and, of course, Pakistan. Travelers from around the world breaking bread (literally) and sharing conversation with locals who might never leave the province, Muslims and non-Muslims of whatever religions and beliefs, all sharing the meal and the moment. One person I spoke with Carlos, an economist from Bogotá, a soft-spoken, intelligent man who is easy to listen to and talk with. Our conversation wasn't lengthy, but our connection was immediate, the kind you occasionally make on the road; the kind that lets you speak easily and candidly, as you would with a trusted friend, but without any baggage.