Recalling all that happened these two days – and my emotions about some of it – could take pages, but here it is, as concisely as possible:
Noon: Hospitality - Muzafar and family: Brad and Freddy went flying, giving me a chance to explore the village. This guy Muzafar saw me taking pix, stopped his car and invited me to tea. His wife, Jamila, and 4 y/o son climbed in the back seat to make room for me, and we drove to their house. Twenty minutes later we were in their courtyard enjoying good conversation and a delicious lunch of chicken in gravy and warm, freshly-baked bread.
Muzafar runs the Stars Land Grammar School, which he started in 1998, and he and Jamila teach there. Our conversation covered several subjects, then came to paragliding. They’d seen Brad flying several times since Spring. They knew he usually landed at the polo ground,
but on one particular flight they'd been concerned because, after flying over Booni for a while, instead of landing he headed easterly, out of sight. They worried about him, and were relieved when they saw him in the village a few days later. They were interested in the flying, but hadn’t met Brad or Freddy. Brad's laptop was with me, and it had all of his, Freddy's and my pictures on it. Yes, they said eagerly, they’d like to see pictures.1 PM Coincidence: We looked at some flying pix, then were looking at pictures in and around Booni. Remember the electrical engineer with the water mill/electric generator? While looking at those Muzafar points to the daughter and says, “She’s my student,” then points to the father and says, “He’s my cousin.” When we’re looking at the pix of Aftaab’s family Jamila points to Aftaab’s mother and says, “She’s my sister.” They also know and recognize Mir Safdar Khan and the cook at our hotel, but aren’t related to either. They recognized others, but that’s enough for now.
4 PM Hotel - News of Hospital: Aziz, the hotel manager, speaks little English, but as soon as I get back he conveys
to me that Brad is at the hospital. An instant of panic, but just an instant. [Stay present, stay calm. A deep breath helps me get centered. Brad and I have had this conversation, not just about a paragliding accident, but about mortality. And about the importance of staying in the present - the now. Brad gave me a CD book several years ago. That, plus several conversations with Brad, plus practice, convinced me of the uselessness of worrying about things past and things we can't control. Looking back at my reaction convinces me that some of the lessons have sunk in.]With patience and translation help from the owner's son I learn that Brad is not injured. Freddy had the accident, and that his injuries aren't life-threatening. With that info there's no urgency for me to go to the hospital, wherever it might be. In a little while Brad gets back. It is very, very good to see him. We eat, then head out to visit Freddy. The hospital is a half-hour walk.
7 PM Hospital Hospitality: Freddy is the only patient in a 6-bed ward, but he’s not alone. A
couple of guys Freddy had met in the village are visiting, and a district government guy who leaves when he's satisfied that Freddy won't die. The hospital administrator, Mr. Sawat, is there, having brought food his wife prepared for Freddy. Mr. Sawat explained that tourists in the hospital are treated as guests. In addition to the food brought by Sawat, Afayat Khan, the hotel owner brought grapes, dates, bottled water and a package of cookies. And there was homemade bread and a dessert which had been brought by Muzafar, who had left only a few minutes before we got there. After seeing me off Muzafar had gone to the marketplace, overheard a conversation about the injured paraglider, felt a kinship because of my visit and the pix?, and Jamila made something to take to Freddy. 
While we were there two local police stopped in to check on the injured tourist. Mr. Sawat stayed till 10, and finally left when we did. Is that all hospitality or what?Wed Oct 10 – Hospital
Freddy’s doing well. His injuries are sprained wrists and a compressed vertebra. He has good (but slow) movement and decreasing pain. Today Asif (the student who asked for my help) brought Freddy some grapes. Last night we met the on-duty doc, Fatima (forgot her last name), an OBGYN. Wish there had been more time to talk, as she was very interesting.
Today the head doc, Abdul Karim, a surgeon, gave us a tour. The hospital has 3 6-bed wards (men, women, and women with children), 3 semi- private rooms, 2 ORs (1 with a new anesthesiology machine that can take over breathing), a delivery room (the picture w/ Brad looking; they average 2 births a day), X-ray room, ultrasound room, dentist office, plus admitting room (computerized) and various offices, and the nurses station (below).
An Aga Khan foundation built the hospital and pays ongoing expenses. It is open to all, not just Ismailis, and costs are very reasonable. An office visit with a doc is less than $1; x-ray is $2. Records are computerized,
but there's still lots of paper, like all the green records behind the admitting desk. The picture is of the Aga Khan. It's the same one as in a number of homes and businesses, and isn't real recent, since the Aga Khan is in his mid 70's now.The hospital serves not only the 1600 Booni residents, but thousands in surrounding villages. Interesting notes: 1. During Ramadan there are fewer hospital visits. 2. There are more visits right before winter, and because winters are hard and transport difficult, there are many more home births during winter.. 3. Most of the hospital is heated with wood stoves (they vent outside). They are removed during mild months, and Freddy’s ward was pretty cool (he had plenty of blankets, however). 4. The delivery room has an electric baby warmer, and the ORs have electric heaters, but the heaters sometime overload the circuits. 5. A coincidence: in Gilgit Brad stayed with his friend Farhar. Turns out he’s a cousin of Dr. Fatima. Coincidence. Oh, btw, she wasn’t in the hospital today, but had sent lunch for Freddy – and Brad and me. Hospitality.
Freddy was anxious to get out of the hospital and back to the hotel. He was doing well and was dismissed. He has some meds for pain, and he’ll need to take it easy for a while.
VERY LATE POST SCRIPT 2/12/08
Just got an email from Freddy. He got back to France in December and found out both his wrists were broken. So the treatment in the Booni hospital, while caring and well-meaning, wasn't as thorough as we thought. He now has 2 pins in one wrist, but seems fully recovered, as he's out of his casts and is flying and rock-climbing again.
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